A brush shapes the outcome of your painting more than almost any other piece of gear. A good brush holds its tip, carries enough paint, and follows your hand. A bad brush frays, loses its point, and fights you on every stroke. And yet picking the right one doesn't have to be rocket science — you just need to understand a few basic principles.
We'll explain what brushes are made of, how to spot a quality brush, which sizes and types you need, and which brands are worth your money — from affordable synthetics for beginners to premium Kolinsky for the demanding painter.
What are brushes made of?
Bristle material is the first and most important decision. There are three main types, each with its own character, price, and best use.
Synthetic
Most affordableNylon or polyester fibers. Modern synthetic has come a long way — the best lines rival natural bristles for most techniques.
✓ Resistant to acrylics and mediums
✓ Cheap, ideal for starting out
✗ Cheaper pieces lose their tip
Kolinsky sable
The premium standardHair from the tail of the Siberian weasel. The gold standard in miniature painting — an exceptional tip, strong snap, and large paint capacity.
✓ Holds the finest point
✓ Carries a lot of paint
✗ Higher price, needs proper care
Red sable
The sweet middle groundA natural hair between synthetic and Kolinsky in both price and performance. Softer than Kolinsky, but with a good tip and paint capacity.
✓ Natural hair at a reasonable price
✓ Soft stroke, good point
✗ Less snap than Kolinsky
Brush anatomy — what to know
You can tell a quality brush by a few key parts. Understanding the anatomy helps you shop with more confidence and care for your brush correctly.
Parts of a paintbrush
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1
Tip The most important part — it determines precision. A quality brush holds a sharp point even after months of use.
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2
Belly The middle section of the bristles that holds paint. A bigger belly means more paint per stroke and less frequent dipping.
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3
Ferrule The metal part connecting the bristles to the handle. A good ferrule is stainless steel and sturdy.
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4
Handle Wooden or lacquered. Length and thickness affect comfort during long painting sessions.
Sizes and shapes — what's for what
Brush size is marked with numbers — for a standard range, the rule is the higher the number, the bigger the brush (0, 1, 2, 3…). The finest brushes use a special slash notation, like 5/0 or 10/0, where it works the other way around — the higher the number before the slash, the smaller the tip. For miniatures, you'll typically work somewhere between 5/0 (very tiny) and 3 (large). The shape then determines what the brush is good for.
Round — sizes 1–2
The most versatile shape and the backbone of every painter's kit. A good round brush holds a fine point for detail while still carrying enough paint for base coating. Most of your work will happen at sizes 1 and 2.
Detail (round) — sizes 0 down to 5/0
Small round brushes for the finest details — eyes, gems, sharp edges, delicate lines. Careful: very small brushes hold little paint, and you'll need to redip often.
Flat — base coating and blending
A flat edge is ideal for covering large flat surfaces, armor and cloaks, and for wet-blending technique. Gives even coverage across a large area.
Drybrush
A special stiff brush made for the drybrushing technique. Stiff bristles distribute a minimal amount of paint onto raised surfaces more effectively. More in our dedicated article on drybrushing.
Which brand?
Our shop carries brushes from 14 brands across every price range. Here's an overview of the most recommended ones by level:
Army Painter
Our bestselling brush line — quality synthetic at an affordable price, with a clear naming system by purpose. The Hobby and Wargamer ranges cover all the basics. Ideal first brushes.
Army Painter brushes →Citadel
Games Workshop's own line, designed around the Citadel paint system — a brush for every step (Base, Layer, Shade, Dry). Reliable synthetic at a mid-range price, with wide tutorial support.
Citadel brushes →RedGrass
A Swiss company whose motto is that once you have three good brushes (00, 2, drybrush), you simply don't need any more. And we can confirm that. They work beautifully and hold their tip wonderfully.
Red Grass →DaVinci
German brushes with an excellent reputation — quality Kolinsky as well as synthetic options at a competitive price. The Maestro and Casaneo lines are popular among miniature painters for their value.
DaVinci →Winsor & Newton Series 7
One of the most respected brushes in the world — the Series 7 Kolinsky sable is the benchmark every other brush gets measured against. Handmade from the finest Kolinsky hair. A fixture at painting competitions.
Winsor & Newton →Artis Opus
British premium synthetic brushes designed specifically for miniatures. The Series D and Series S lines use Dura-Tek fibers that rival natural bristles for both snap and point. A great upgrade from basic synthetic.
Artis Opus →Synthetic vs Kolinsky — when to upgrade?
| Synthetic | Kolinsky sable | |
|---|---|---|
| Price | Low to medium | High |
| Tip and snap | Good (premium lines very good) | Excellent |
| Paint capacity | Lower | High |
| Wear resistance | High | Lower — needs care |
| Best for | Beginners, drybrushing, base coating, tabletop | Details, glazes, blending, competition work |
A simple rule: only upgrade to Kolinsky once synthetic starts holding you back. If you notice your brush losing its point during detail work, or you can't maintain a smooth transition while blending, it's time for a Winsor & Newton Series 7 or a RedGrass.
What brushes does a beginner need?
For starting out, we recommend three or four synthetic brushes instead of a large set of unknown quality. This lineup covers everything a beginner needs:
🖌 Recommended starter brush set
Base coating brush (size 2)
Army Painter Basecoating or a Citadel Base brush. A larger brush that quickly covers big surfaces.
Everyday and layering brush (size 1)
Army Painter Precise Detail or Citadel Layer. Your workhorse for most time spent at the table.
Detail brush (size 0 or smaller)
Army Painter Super Detail or Citadel XS Detail. A small brush for eyes, gems, and fine details.
Drybrush
Army Painter Hobby Drybrush or Citadel Drybrush. A dedicated stiff brush protects your other brushes from this abrasive technique.
How to care for brushes so they last
A well-maintained brush lasts many times longer than a neglected one. Three habits determine its lifespan:
- Rinse between colors — thoroughly rinse the brush in clean water every time you switch paint. Dried paint in the ferrule is the number one brush killer.
- Never leave a brush standing in water — it bends the bristles permanently and ruins the tip. After rinsing, lay the brush flat or store it tip-up.
- Reshape the tip after every session — gently shape the bristles back into a point and let them dry. For a deep clean of dried-in paint, use a brush soap or a restoration gel, such as Abteilung 502 Magic Gel.
The most common mistakes when choosing and using brushes
Too small a brush for everything
Beginners reach for the smallest brushes for "better detail." But a small brush holds little paint and dries out between strokes. A size 1 with a good point handles most work better.
Drybrushing with a good brush
Drybrushing is a harsh technique and will ruin the tip of a Kolinsky or premium synthetic within a few sessions. Always use a dedicated drybrush brush.
Dipping past the ferrule
Paint trapped in the ferrule spreads the bristles apart, and the brush permanently loses its tip. Dip no deeper than halfway up the bristles, and clean with soap after each session.
A big cheap set instead of a few good brushes
A set of 20 unknown brushes for a few crowns sounds tempting, but none of them will hold a point. Three or four quality purpose-specific brushes will serve you far better.
A brush standing in water
Leave a brush standing tip-down in a cup, and the bristles bend permanently. You can ruin even the most expensive Kolinsky this way in a single session.
Buying Kolinsky too soon
Buying a premium Kolinsky as your very first brush isn't ideal — without good care habits, you'll wreck it quickly. Start with good synthetic and upgrade as your demands grow.
Summary — how to choose a brush
- Beginner → quality synthetic (Army Painter, Citadel), 3–4 purpose-specific brushes
- Upgrading from basics → premium brushes like Artis Opus or DaVinci
- Advanced / competition → Kolinsky Winsor & Newton Series 7 or RedGrass
- Size 1 is the most versatile — handles most of the work
- A dedicated drybrush — never a good Kolinsky for drybrushing
- Care makes the difference — rinse, don't leave in water, reshape the tip, clean with soap
- Only upgrade once synthetic holds you back — not sooner, not later
Brushes from 14 brands — from affordable synthetic to premium Kolinsky — are available at our shop in Plzeň at Zbrojnická 116/2, open Mon–Fri 1pm–6pm. Come try the brushes in hand and compare before you buy. We're happy to advise based on your experience and painting style.
obchod@coloursofwarriors.com · +420 737 281 727