Glue is the quiet hero of every assembled miniature — and also the very first place new hobbyists tend to reach for the wrong product. A plastic Citadel miniature, a resin figure from a smaller manufacturer, or a metal add-on weapon — each one calls for a different type of glue, and getting it wrong means either a joint that falls apart or a ruined part covered in melted plastic.
We'll walk through the three basic types of glue used when assembling Warhammer miniatures, when to use which, how to apply them correctly, and how to avoid the most common mistakes — from glued-together fingers to ruined details.
Three basic types of glue
To assemble miniatures, you need to know three categories of glue. Each works on a different principle and suits a different material.
Works differently from ordinary glue — it chemically dissolves the surface of the plastic and fuses both parts together into one piece, essentially "welding" them. Once dry, the joint is extremely strong, because it's no longer really a joint — it's more like a weld.
✓ The strongest joint on plastic
✓ More time to adjust position
✗ Only works on plastic — not resin or metal
Citadel Plastic Glue →Super Glue (CA / cyanoacrylate)
A cyanoacrylate glue — bonds almost anything: plastic, resin, metal, and also fingers. Forms a very strong bond within seconds. Unlike cement, it doesn't weld the material — it bonds it chemically.
✓ Universal — plastic, resin, metal
✓ Fast curing
✗ Very little time to adjust position
Super Glue in our shop →The classic water-based white glue. Not suited as a structural glue for the miniature itself, but indispensable for basing — attaching sand, loose materials, and tufts to the base.
✓ Safe, easy to clean up with water
✓ Ideal for loose basing materials
✗ Not suitable for structural miniature joints
PVA Glue in our shop →Which glue for which material?
Plastic to plastic
The vast majority of Citadel and Army Painter miniatures. Plastic glue (cement) is the first choice — it creates the strongest possible joint by welding the material together. Standard density for most joints, Extra Thin for precise, small joints.
Resin
Resin miniatures (often from smaller manufacturers or special models) don't "weld" the way plastic does. Use Super Glue instead — it creates a chemical bond without needing to dissolve the material.
Metal
Older or specialty metal components (weapons, add-ons) call for Super Glue, ideally in a higher-viscosity formula like High Viscosity — a thicker consistency fills gaps between metal parts better.
Mixed materials (plastic + resin/metal)
Common with models that have resin heads on a plastic torso, or metal weapons. Super Glue is the only option — cement won't work across mismatched materials, since it has nothing to "weld" on the resin or metal side.
Plastic glue — which viscosity?
Plastic glue (cement) comes in different viscosities. Your choice affects how easy it is to apply and what type of joint it suits:
| Type | Consistency | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Cement Extra Thin | Very thin, watery | Precise joints, wicks into the seam, small details |
| Cement Quick Extra Thin | Thin, fast curing | Same as Extra Thin, but with faster drying for the impatient |
| Cement Plastic Standard Density | Medium thickness, with an application brush | All-purpose joints, larger parts, standard assembly |
| Citadel Plastic Glue | More gel-like, thicker | The Warhammer evergreen — fills smaller gaps too, stays workable longer |
How to glue miniatures properly — step by step
Always dry-fit first
Before applying any glue, fit the parts together dry and check how they'll sit. Make sure you understand the orientation, the angle, and what goes where. Once parts are glued, you can't easily separate them — checking beforehand saves a lot of headaches.
Apply a small amount
Less is always more. A thin layer of glue on one or both surfaces is enough for a strong bond. Excess glue squeezes out of the seam, seeps into details, and once dry, leaves visible glossy patches under the paint.
Press together and hold
Join the parts and hold them in place — 10–20 seconds for plastic cement, just a few seconds for Super Glue, since it cures almost instantly.
4
Let it fully cure before handling
A joint can feel solid to the touch after a minute, but full curing takes longer — typically 10–15 minutes for plastic cement, a few minutes for Super Glue. Don't test the joint by bending or applying force too early — you risk weakening it invisibly.
PVA glue and basing — where it comes in handy
PVA glue has its place in the hobby, just not for assembling the miniature itself. It's an indispensable tool for basing:
- Loose materials — sand, pebbles, and grit are applied onto a base coated with PVA glue, and any excess is shaken off once dry
- Tufts and static grass — a drop of PVA glue or Super Glue attaches a tuft directly onto a finished, painted base as the final detail. You'll find a wide selection of tufts in our basing materials section
- Lightweight decorations — paper or light plastic elements where you don't need the strength of cement or Super Glue
The most common mistakes when gluing miniatures
Cement on resin or metal
Plastic glue works by dissolving the surface — on resin or metal, there's nothing for it to "weld," and the joint won't hold. Always use Super Glue for these materials.
Too much glue
Excess squeezes into details, creates glossy patches under the paint, and with plastic cement can "dissolve" the surface around the joint. A thin layer is enough.
Fingers glued together with Super Glue
Cyanoacrylate bonds chemically to any damp surface — including skin. Keep acetone or nail polish remover nearby for emergency removal — or wear gloves. Work in a well-ventilated space.
Handling before it's cured
A joint can look solid after a minute, but full curing takes longer. Bending or stressing it too early can quietly weaken it — and it may snap later, often during transport.
Gluing without a dry-fit test
You glue a part at the wrong angle and only notice once it's dry. Always dry-assemble the model first and check the orientation of every part.
Storing with an open lid
Both plastic cement and Super Glue dry out or thicken quickly in the bottle if not sealed properly. Always close the lid carefully — an open bottle can dry out within a few days.
What you need to get started
The basic gluing arsenal
Citadel Plastic Glue or Cement Plastic Standard Density
The foundation for assembling the vast majority of plastic Warhammer miniatures. Comes with an application brush for easy use.
Super Glue (CA)
For resin, metal, and mixed materials. A universal fallback when cement isn't an option.
Cement Extra Thin
For more advanced work — gluing via controlled drops, small details, minor repairs, and conversions.
PVA Glue
For basing — loose materials, tufts, and decorations on bases. Also available in our basing materials section.
Summary — which glue to choose
- Plastic to plastic → Citadel Plastic Glue or Cement Standard Density — welds the material into one piece
- Resin, metal, mixed materials → Super Glue (CA) — a universal chemical bond
- Precise, small joints → Cement Extra Thin, applied in drops with a small brush
- Basing, tufts, loose materials → PVA Glue
- Always dry-fit first — check orientation and fit before applying any glue
- Less is more — a thin layer works, excess causes problems
- Let it fully cure before any handling — a joint looks solid before it actually is
Plastic glue, Super Glue, and PVA glue are all available at our shop in Plzeň at Zbrojnická 116/2, open Mon–Fri 1pm–6pm. Or order online — we ship throughout the Czech Republic and the EU. If you're not sure which glue to pick for your project, we're happy to help.
obchod@coloursofwarriors.com · +420 737 281 727