This is a question every miniature painter runs into sooner or later: is Kolinsky worth the money? A hundred-crown synthetic brush versus a Kolinsky sable costing several times more — is there really a difference, or is it just marketing aimed at people with an oversized hobby budget? The answer is more complicated than a simple yes or no — and it depends on what you actually want from a brush.
This article walks through both types of brushes from the ground up: what they're made of, how they behave with different techniques, when synthetic is enough, and when Kolinsky genuinely changes the outcome of your work.
Synthetic and Kolinsky — what are they, exactly?
Synthetic brushes
Synthetic brushes are made from man-made fibers — most commonly nylon or polyester. Manufacturing technology has moved on a great deal over the past twenty years: modern premium synthetics behave considerably better than the cheap synthetics you'd find at a drugstore. Today's fibers are engineered to mimic the triangular cross-section of natural hair and achieve a similar snapping effect.
Kolinsky sable
Kolinsky is natural hair from the tail of an animal called Mustela sibirica (a type of weasel), specifically from the tail, where the hair is at its best quality. It originates from the Siberian region, where hunting was traditionally concentrated — today it comes mainly from areas like Taymyr in northern Russia, where the climate is harshest and, as a result, the hair is at its toughest.
Kolinsky isn't a single material — it's a spectrum of quality depending on origin, the part of the tail it comes from, and how it's processed. Scale75 Kolinsky Tajmyr names its region of origin directly in the product name, while Winsor & Newton Series 7 is famous for hand-selecting and binding hairs under a microscope.
Three properties that actually matter in a brush
When comparing synthetic and Kolinsky, three specific properties are relevant — everything else is largely a matter of personal preference:
Snap (spring)
The brush's ability to return to its original shape after every stroke. A brush with good snap is predictable. Without snap, the brush "splays out" and you have to actively correct it, reshaping the tip yourself.
Advantage: KolinskyTip
The ability to hold a sharp point. This is what determines precision in detail work — eyes, fine-line highlights, delicate glazes, and transitions. Kolinsky holds its point longer and better; premium synthetic comes close, but not all the way there.
Advantage: KolinskyPaint capacity (belly)
How much paint the brush can hold in its belly. Greater capacity means fewer interruptions to re-dip the brush, plus a more even paint application. Thanks to its fiber structure, Kolinsky naturally holds more paint than a synthetic brush of the same size.
Advantage: KolinskyWear resistance
Synthetic holds up better under rough use — drybrushing, stippling, working with coarser paints (say, metallics or oil paints). Kolinsky is more prone to damage from improper use and needs more careful maintenance.
Advantage: SyntheticResistance to oil paints
Modern synthetic holds up excellently against oil paints and thinners (like White Spirit). Kolinsky is fairly sensitive to harsher cleaning agents and certain mediums.
Advantage: SyntheticPrice and availability
Good-quality synthetic is generally much more affordable than a line of Kolinsky brushes. It's worth thinking about what you'll actually use the brush for, but as a general rule (and for the price alone) we'd recommend it as a starting point.
Advantage: SyntheticSynthetic vs Kolinsky — head to head
Synthetic brushes
- ✓ Low price — start with no real risk
- ✓ Holds up to wear and rough use
- ✓ Resistant to oils and thinners
- ✓ Premium synthetic comes very close to Kolinsky
- ✓ Vegan-friendly
- ✗ Weaker snap than Kolinsky
- ✗ Less paint capacity in the belly
- ✗ The tip breaks down faster over time
- ✗ Transitions and glazes are harder to pull off
Kolinsky sable
- ✓ Exceptional snap and spring
- ✓ The best tip — holds its point longer
- ✓ Large paint capacity
- ✓ Transitions, glazes, and blending come more easily
- ✓ A better feel while painting — smoother
- ✗ Significantly higher price
- ✗ Prone to damage without proper care
- ✗ Unsuitable for drybrushing and rough techniques
- ✗ Ethical questions around sourcing
Specific brushes from the CoW range
Army Painter Hobby range
Basecoating, Precise Detail, Super Detail — brushes for both detail work and larger areas of a model. Solid synthetic at an affordable price. Ideal as a first set.
Citadel STC brushes (white)
Base, Layer, Shade, Detail — brushes designed specifically for the Citadel paint system. Reliable synthetic, clearly named by purpose, best tutorial support out there.
Artis Opus Series S, M and D
Handmade British brushes designed specifically for painting miniatures. The wooden-case sets are a popular gift item at our shop.
RedGrass Games RGG Kolinsky
Three sizes (2/0, 2), an ergonomic handle, excellent tip longevity. Brushes we'd vouch for without hesitation — supple, precise, and forgiving even when you don't take perfect care of them.
Winsor & Newton Series 7
The benchmark of the entire brush industry — hand-selected hairs under a microscope, hand-bound in England since 1866. Sizes 0 and 1 are the most commonly used for miniatures. An investment that lasts for years.
Scale75 Kolinsky Tajmyr
Hair from the Taymyr region in northern Siberia — among the finest sable hair available. Designed for detail work and precise miniature painting.
Which technique calls for Kolinsky — and where synthetic is enough
| Technique | Recommendation | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Base coating | Synthetic | A large area, a simple stroke — snap and tip aren't all that critical here. Synthetic handles base coating perfectly well, and there's no need to risk an expensive Kolinsky brush on it. |
| Washing / Shading | Synthetic | A wash is a thin paint that flows on its own. Neither snap nor tip really come into play — you just need a soft brush. |
| Drybrushing | Dedicated drybrush brush | An abrasive technique that will ruin any good brush. Never use Kolinsky for drybrushing — only a stiff brush made specifically for that purpose. |
| Layering and highlighting | Premium synthetic or Kolinsky | Tip precision starts to matter for edge highlighting. Premium synthetic works great here; Kolinsky gives you even more control. |
| Glazes and blending | Kolinsky or premium synthetic | Smooth glazes need good snap and paint capacity. Cheap synthetic falls short here — Kolinsky or premium synthetic will make a noticeable difference. |
| NMM and fine detail | Kolinsky | The most demanding technique in terms of tip and snap. A Kolinsky in sizes 0 and 1 is the best investment here — the tip holds up even after an hour of precise work. |
| Painting skin and faces | Kolinsky or premium synthetic | Faces are the most eye-catching spot on any miniature. Tip precision directly affects the result here — it's worth reaching for a better brush. |
Brush care — Kolinsky demands more respect
One argument against Kolinsky is the care it requires — and it's a fair one. Kolinsky sable is a natural material that reacts to poor handling much more sensitively than synthetic.
- Never soak past the ferrule (the metal part at the brush's base) — paint trapped in the ferrule spreads the bristles apart, and the brush loses its tip permanently. This applies to both types, but Kolinsky is more sensitive to it.
- Never leave it standing in water — bent Kolinsky bristles can't be fixed. After rinsing, always lay the brush flat or store it tip-up.
- Clean with soap after every session — a gentle brush soap (or, in a pinch, ordinary hand soap) removes leftover paint and reshapes the tip. For Kolinsky, this is a mandatory routine, not an optional one.
- Store the brush with a protective cap — a plastic cover or a travel tube protects the tip from damage when you're on the move.
When to upgrade — and when not to
Stick with synthetic if:
You're just starting out and want to learn the basic techniques without a financial commitment. You mainly paint larger armies to tabletop quality. You tend to be rough on your brushes or forget to maintain them. You want a vegan alternative.
Upgrade to Kolinsky if:
Synthetic is frustrating you during detail work — the tip falls apart partway through a line. You're trying advanced techniques like NMM, blending, or glazes on miniature faces. You're willing to put in the time for proper care after every session.
Try premium synthetic if:
You're not sure whether Kolinsky is for you — premium synthetic is a great middle ground. Noticeably better than cheap synthetic, with no need for intensive care, at a reasonable price.
Use both:
Most experienced painters work with both types: synthetic for base coating, washes, and drybrushing — Kolinsky for details, glazes, and finishing touches. You don't have to pick just one.
Summary — is Kolinsky worth it?
- For beginners: no. Learn the techniques first — then invest in a better tool.
- For more advanced painters: it depends on the technique. NMM, blending, faces → yes. Base coating and washes → no.
- We recommend Kolinsky once synthetic starts frustrating you during detail work — not before.
- Care is mandatory — neglect a Kolinsky and you'll wear it out faster than a cheap synthetic.
- Drybrushing always means a dedicated brush — a drybrush brush, never Kolinsky or even a good synthetic.
- Combining both works best — synthetic for rough work, Kolinsky for the finesse.
The full range of brushes — from Army Painter and Citadel to Artis Opus and RedGrass, all the way to Winsor & Newton Series 7 and Scale75 Kolinsky Tajmyr — is available at our shop in Plzeň at Zbrojnická 116/2, open Mon–Fri 1pm–6pm. Come try the brushes in hand and compare them before you buy.
obchod@coloursofwarriors.com · +420 737 281 727