Primer is the first thing you apply to a miniature — and yet almost nobody gives it the attention it deserves. Pick the wrong primer and it won't ruin the miniature, but it will make everything that comes after it noticeably harder. Pick the right one, on the other hand, and it does a huge chunk of the work for you before you've even touched the model with a brush.
In this article, we'll cover why you need a primer at all, which type to pick for which technique, what the different primer colors mean, and which specific product to reach for from our range.
Why use a primer at all?
Plastic, resin, and metal miniatures all have smooth, slightly greasy surfaces — acrylic paint doesn't hold well on them without prep, can flake off, and won't cover evenly. Primer solves these problems in three ways:
- Adhesion — primer chemically bonds to the miniature's surface and creates a texture that acrylic paint holds onto far better. It's the difference between painting on clean glass and painting on a roughened surface.
- Even coverage — primer covers the varying tones of plastic (grey, tan, clear), resin, and metal with a single uniform layer. Every color applied afterward behaves the same way, regardless of the material's original color.
- The starting tone for the whole paint job — the primer's color directly affects the result of every color painted over it. This is the single most important thing to consider when choosing a primer.
Which primer color should you choose?
This is the most important decision. Primer color isn't just an aesthetic choice — it directly determines how every color applied over it will behave. Translucent paints (Contrast, Speedpaint) are especially sensitive to this choice.
Black primer
Shadows come free — recesses stay naturally dark without any extra shading. Colors applied over black come out richer and darker. Ideal for dark armies, metals, grimdark aesthetics.
Use for: Dark Space Marines, Chaos, metals, dark fantasy, realistic figures.
Not ideal for: Contrast paints, Speedpaint — they don't work over a black base.
White primer
Maximum brightness and saturation — every color applied over white comes out as bright and vivid as possible. Contrast and Speedpaint paints work best over white for vivid tones. That said, white forgives mistakes less than other colors.
Use for: Bright colors (red, yellow, orange), Contrast paints for vivid tones, bright fantasy armies.
Not ideal for: Dark color schemes, beginners without Contrast experience.
Grey primer
The safest choice for beginners — a grey base forgives mistakes, works with most techniques, and doesn't require as precise an application as white. Shadows come out natural, though not as dark as on black.
Use for: Metals, grey armies, first miniatures, a universal base.
Recommended for: Beginners and anyone still trying out different techniques.
Wraithbone primer
A warm, creamy base designed specifically for Citadel Contrast paints. Brown, earthy, organic, and warm colors look their best over Wraithbone. Skeleton Horde, Wyldwood, Snakebite Leather — all of them work great.
Use for: Warm-toned Contrast paints, bone, leather, wood, fantasy armies.
Grey Seer primer
A cool grey base for cool-toned Contrast paints — blues, greens, purples, blacks. Black Templar, Talassar Blue, and Aethermatic Blue over Grey Seer give a richer, cooler result.
Use for: Cool-toned Contrast paints, blue armor, sci-fi armies.
Colored primer
Vallejo Colour Primers (and also Vallejo Sprays) come in a wide range of colors — red, green, blue, brown, metallic... A colored primer works as both a primer and a base coat at once, saving you an entire layer of brushwork.
Use for: Fast-painting armies where you want to save time on base coating.
Primer formats — spray, bottle, or airbrush?
Aerosol spray
- The fastest application
- Even coverage with no brush marks
- Needs ventilation or outdoor use
- Can't be used below 10°C or in high humidity
- No control over volume or pressure
- Ideal for regularly priming multiple models
Bottled primer (brush-on)
- Usable indoors year-round
- Precise application to specific spots
- Risk of visible brush marks — apply thinly
- Good for touch-ups and detail work
- Cheaper per milliliter than aerosol
- Ideal for individual models or repairs
Airbrush primer
- The smoothest, most even result
- Usable indoors year-round
- Zenithal highlighting possible in one step
- Requires an airbrush + compressor
- Needs cleaning after every use
- Ideal for regular painters with an airbrush setup
Which primer for which situation?
I'm painting Space Marines or an army with dark armor
→ Chaos Black or Vallejo Black Primer. Recesses stay naturally dark, metals pop nicely over a Nuln Oil wash, and you save time on shading.
I want to use Contrast or Speedpaint paints
→ Wraithbone for warm tones (browns, earthy colors, reds) or Grey Seer for cool tones (blues, greens, blacks). Contrast doesn't work over a black base.
I'm a beginner and don't know what to pick
→ Mechanicus Standard Grey or Vallejo Grey Primer. The most universal choice — forgives mistakes and works with most techniques and colors.
I want to save time painting an army
→ Army Painter Colour Primer in your army's color. A colored primer replaces the whole base coat — spray it on and go straight to details.
I'm painting vivid colors — yellow, red, orange
→ White Scar or Vallejo White Primer. Bright colors need a light base — over black or grey they'll come out dull and muted.
I'm painting in winter or don't have access to outdoor space
→ Bottled Vallejo Primer applied with a brush or airbrush. No sprays indoors — bottled or airbrush primers only.
How to apply primer correctly
Prep the miniature — clean and dry
The miniature needs to be fully assembled, free of mold lines, and thoroughly rinsed (though not strictly necessary for Warhammer models) in warm water with dish soap — plastic miniatures come from the factory with a thin layer of release agent that hinders adhesion. Let it dry completely — even slight dampness will cause adhesion problems.
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Check the conditions (spray)
Only apply aerosol spray at a temperature of 10–25°C and relative humidity below 70%. Too cold = primer dries unevenly and forms a "grainy" texture. Too humid = the same problem. In poor conditions, use a bottled primer instead.
Shake the can and spray from 25–30 cm away
Shake the can thoroughly for 60 seconds. Spray from a distance of 25–30 cm using short, sweeping passes — never hold it on one spot for more than 1–2 seconds. The goal is a thin, even layer. Two light coats beat one heavy one.
Cover the model from every angle
Spray from the front, the sides, and above — get into every fold. Turn the model on its side and spray the underside too. You don't need perfect coverage of every square millimeter, but the folds and recesses matter — uncovered plastic will show through dark colors.
Let it fully dry — at least 15 minutes
Primer looks dry after 5 minutes, but it fully bonds to the surface after 15–30 minutes. If you start painting too soon, the paint will mix with the still-soft primer underneath and the result will suffer. Better to wait longer — primer won't spoil by sitting.
Brand comparison — Citadel vs Vallejo vs Army Painter
| Brand | Format | Colors | Advantages | Drawbacks |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Citadel | 400ml aerosol | Chaos Black, Corax White, Grey Seer, Wraithbone, Mech. Grey, Leadbelcher, Retributor Armour | Excellent adhesion on GW plastics, vivid colors, wide tutorial support | Pricier per ml, fewer color options |
| Vallejo Primer + Vallejo Spray | 60ml bottle + 400ml aerosol | Black, white, grey, brown, and more | Excellent coverage, airbrush-friendly, usable indoors, great price | Aerosol has fewer color options than Army Painter |
| Army Painter Colour Primer | 400ml aerosol | 40+ colors including Army Green, Dragon Red, Skeleton Bone, Gun Metal... | The widest color range, replaces base coating, great price, excellent adhesion | Colored primers need matching to a specific color scheme |
The most common priming mistakes
Priming in bad weather
Spraying in cold or humid conditions causes a "grainy" texture that obscures the model's details. This texture can't easily be fixed. Always check temperature and humidity — or switch to a bottled primer.
Too thick a coat
A heavy primer coat clogs up fine details — reliefs, faces, and textures get lost under the layer of paint. Apply primer in a thin, even coat. When in doubt, less is always the better choice.
Priming an unprepped miniature
Mold lines, plastic flash, or grease from your hands cause poor adhesion and visible flaws. Always file off mold lines, wash the model, and let it dry completely before priming.
Holding the spray too close or too far
Too close (under 20cm) = wet primer runs and forms drips. Too far (over 40cm) = a dry, powdery coat with poor adhesion. The ideal distance is 25–30cm with sweeping motions.
Black primer under Contrast paints
Contrast and Speedpaint paints don't work over a black base — they're translucent, and a black base swallows them up. Always use a light primer (Wraithbone, Grey Seer, white) if you're planning to use Contrast.
Not waiting for it to dry
Painting over primer that hasn't fully dried causes the layers to mix. Primer looks dry quickly, but full curing takes 15–30 minutes. Better to wait it out.
Summary — how to choose a primer
- A dark army or metals → Chaos Black
- Contrast or Speedpaint — warm colors → Wraithbone
- Contrast or Speedpaint — cool colors → Grey Seer
- Vivid colors (yellow, red) → White Scar
- Beginner, not sure what to pick → Mechanicus Standard Grey
- Fast-painting an army → Army Painter Colour Primer in your army's color
- Winter months or no outdoor access → Bottled Vallejo Primer
- Apply in the right conditions — 10–25°C, low humidity, 25–30cm distance
The full range of primers — Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, and AK Interactive — is available at our shop in Plzeň at Zbrojnická 116/2, open Mon–Fri 1pm–6pm. If you're not sure, drop by — we're happy to help you pick the right primer for your specific project.
obchod@coloursofwarriors.com · +420 737 281 727